Trip description
Varzob gorge become popular by its climbing walls even in Soviet times, several routes prepared and climbing camps established there by soviet climbers in XX century. But, during civil war all was ruined and now, step by step local climbing organizations like “Ahba Club” with involving foreign specialists trying to relive the climbing tradition again. The variety of routes and closest location to the center turn this place to a great outdoor leisure. This tour is the best option for those, who want to devote the weekends for outdoor activities, or want to have a great time for a day or two, staying in the city. The 19th km rock-wall can offer more than 15 prepared routes of different grades for lovers of trad and sport climbs. The routes prepared by Yvo Wiedmann and members of “Ahba Club”.
Location
19km drive from Dushanbe to the north, following the Varzob river along the Dushanbe Khujand highway in place called Shafti Mizhgon. Possible only by taxi or the best way is to go with our guides car.
Type: Sport climbing / Multi pitch
Difficulty / Grade: VI by UIAA
Protection: 14 bolts, 4 anchors
Pitches: 4
Crux: The traverse right after the second anchor
The average slope angle: 75-85 degrees
The length: 110 meters, using a 50-meter main rope
Climbing time: climbing takes about 2 hours
Difficulty / Grade: VI by UIAA
Protection: 14 bolts, 4 anchors
Pitches: 4
Crux: The traverse right after the second anchor
The average slope angle: 75-85 degrees
The length: 110 meters, using a 50-meter main rope
Climbing time: climbing takes about 2 hours
Type: Sport climbing
Difficulty / Grade: V+ by UIAA
Protection: 14 bolts, 4 anchors
Pitches: 4
Crux: To pass the second stage (step) on the left side of the second anchor
The average slope angle: 75-85 degrees
The length of the route: 115 meters, using a 50-meter main rope
Climbing time: climbing takes about 2 hours
Difficulty / Grade: V+ by UIAA
Protection: 14 bolts, 4 anchors
Pitches: 4
Crux: To pass the second stage (step) on the left side of the second anchor
The average slope angle: 75-85 degrees
The length of the route: 115 meters, using a 50-meter main rope
Climbing time: climbing takes about 2 hours
Type: Sport climbing
Difficulty / Grade: VI+ by UIAA
Protection: 15 bolts, 4 anchors
Pitches: 4
Crux: To pass the lower part of the flake after the first anchor
The average slope angle: 60 degrees
The length of the route: 110 meters, using a 50-meter main rope
Climbing time: climbing takes about 2 hours
Difficulty / Grade: VI+ by UIAA
Protection: 15 bolts, 4 anchors
Pitches: 4
Crux: To pass the lower part of the flake after the first anchor
The average slope angle: 60 degrees
The length of the route: 110 meters, using a 50-meter main rope
Climbing time: climbing takes about 2 hours
Type: Trad climbing
Difficulty / Grade: IV+ by UIAA
Protection: 8 bolts, 3 anchors, camalots #03 - #3, nuts, SLDCs on average 8
Pitches: 3
Crux: not found
The average slope angle: 60 degrees
The length of the route: 140 meters, using a 50-meter main rope
Climbing time: climbing takes about 1.5 hours
Difficulty / Grade: IV+ by UIAA
Protection: 8 bolts, 3 anchors, camalots #03 - #3, nuts, SLDCs on average 8
Pitches: 3
Crux: not found
The average slope angle: 60 degrees
The length of the route: 140 meters, using a 50-meter main rope
Climbing time: climbing takes about 1.5 hours
Type: Sport climbing
Difficulty / Grade: V by UIAA
Protection: 15 bolts, 4 anchors
Pitches: 4
Crux: To pass the lower part of the hanging rock after the first anchor
The average slope angle: 60 degrees
The length of the route: 110 meters, using a 50-meter main rope
Climbing time: climbing takes about 2 hours
Difficulty / Grade: V by UIAA
Protection: 15 bolts, 4 anchors
Pitches: 4
Crux: To pass the lower part of the hanging rock after the first anchor
The average slope angle: 60 degrees
The length of the route: 110 meters, using a 50-meter main rope
Climbing time: climbing takes about 2 hours
Type: Sport climbing
Difficulty / Grade: VI+ by UIAA
Protection: 10 bolts, 1 anchor
Pitches: 1
Crux: To pass the overhang by left side
The average slope angle: 85 – 90 degrees
The length of the route: 25 meters, using a 50-meter main rope
Climbing time: climbing takes about 0.5 hours
Difficulty / Grade: VI+ by UIAA
Protection: 10 bolts, 1 anchor
Pitches: 1
Crux: To pass the overhang by left side
The average slope angle: 85 – 90 degrees
The length of the route: 25 meters, using a 50-meter main rope
Climbing time: climbing takes about 0.5 hours
Type: Sport climbing
Difficulty / Grade: IV+ by UIAA
Protection: 16 bolts, 1 anchor
Pitches: 1
Crux: To pass the cornice using the aiders (Artificial support points)
The average slope angle: 50 – 170 degrees
The length of the route: 35 meters, using a 50-meter main rope
Climbing time: climbing takes about 1 hour
Difficulty / Grade: IV+ by UIAA
Protection: 16 bolts, 1 anchor
Pitches: 1
Crux: To pass the cornice using the aiders (Artificial support points)
The average slope angle: 50 – 170 degrees
The length of the route: 35 meters, using a 50-meter main rope
Climbing time: climbing takes about 1 hour
Type: Sport climbing
Difficulty / Grade: VI+ by UIAA
Protection: 12 bolts, 1 anchor
Pitches: 1
Crux: not found
The average slope angle: 80 – 85 degrees
The length of the route: 35 meters, using a 50-meter main rope
Climbing time: climbing takes about 1.5 hours
Difficulty / Grade: VI+ by UIAA
Protection: 12 bolts, 1 anchor
Pitches: 1
Crux: not found
The average slope angle: 80 – 85 degrees
The length of the route: 35 meters, using a 50-meter main rope
Climbing time: climbing takes about 1.5 hours
Type: Sport climbing
Difficulty / Grade: V - VII+ by UIAA
Protection: 8 bolts, 4 anchors
Pitches: 4
Crux: To pass the cornice by flattened holds. Possible by using the aiders (Artificial support points)
The average slope angle: 60 – 100 degrees
The length of the route: 95 meters, using a 50-meter main rope
Climbing time: climbing takes about 2 hours
Difficulty / Grade: V - VII+ by UIAA
Protection: 8 bolts, 4 anchors
Pitches: 4
Crux: To pass the cornice by flattened holds. Possible by using the aiders (Artificial support points)
The average slope angle: 60 – 100 degrees
The length of the route: 95 meters, using a 50-meter main rope
Climbing time: climbing takes about 2 hours
Type: Sport climbing
Difficulty / Grade: VI+ by UIAA
Protection: 14 bolts, 2 anchors
Pitches: 2
Crux: To pass the wall with limited number of holds between the first and second anchors
The average slope angle: 75-85 degrees
The length of the route: 40 meters, using a 50-meter main rope
Climbing time: climbing takes about 1.5 hours
Difficulty / Grade: VI+ by UIAA
Protection: 14 bolts, 2 anchors
Pitches: 2
Crux: To pass the wall with limited number of holds between the first and second anchors
The average slope angle: 75-85 degrees
The length of the route: 40 meters, using a 50-meter main rope
Climbing time: climbing takes about 1.5 hours
Type: Sport climbing
Difficulty / Grade: VII by UIAA
Protection: 14 bolts, 2 anchors
Pitches: 2
Crux: 1.To pass over the cornice 2.To pass the rock wall with limited number of holds between the first and second anchors
The average slope angle: 75-85 degrees
The length of the route: 40 meters, using a 50-meter main rope
Climbing time: climbing takes about 1.5 hours
Difficulty / Grade: VII by UIAA
Protection: 14 bolts, 2 anchors
Pitches: 2
Crux: 1.To pass over the cornice 2.To pass the rock wall with limited number of holds between the first and second anchors
The average slope angle: 75-85 degrees
The length of the route: 40 meters, using a 50-meter main rope
Climbing time: climbing takes about 1.5 hours
Type: Sport climbing
Difficulty / Grade: VII- by UIAA
Protection: 19 bolts, 1 anchor
Pitches: 1
Crux: To pass the cornice with limited number of holds
The average slope angle: 85 degrees
The length of the route: 25 meters, using a 50-meter main rope
Climbing time: climbing takes about 0.5 hours
Difficulty / Grade: VII- by UIAA
Protection: 19 bolts, 1 anchor
Pitches: 1
Crux: To pass the cornice with limited number of holds
The average slope angle: 85 degrees
The length of the route: 25 meters, using a 50-meter main rope
Climbing time: climbing takes about 0.5 hours
Type: Sport climbing
Difficulty / Grade: VII by UIAA
Protection: 8 bolts, 1 anchor
Pitches: 1
Crux: To pass the route with limited number of holds
The average slope angle: 85-95 degrees
The length of the route: 25 meters, using a 50-meter main rope
Climbing time: climbing takes about 1 hour
Difficulty / Grade: VII by UIAA
Protection: 8 bolts, 1 anchor
Pitches: 1
Crux: To pass the route with limited number of holds
The average slope angle: 85-95 degrees
The length of the route: 25 meters, using a 50-meter main rope
Climbing time: climbing takes about 1 hour
Type: Top rope climbing (the anchor is higher BETTER DAYS route’s point)
Difficulty / Grade:VII+ by UIAA
Protection: 1 anchor on the top
Pitches: 1
Crux: The passage of a steep wall along an inclined crack
The average slope angle: 70 – 110 degrees
The length of the route: 25 meters, using a 50-meter main rope
Climbing time: climbing takes about 1.5 hours
Difficulty / Grade:VII+ by UIAA
Protection: 1 anchor on the top
Pitches: 1
Crux: The passage of a steep wall along an inclined crack
The average slope angle: 70 – 110 degrees
The length of the route: 25 meters, using a 50-meter main rope
Climbing time: climbing takes about 1.5 hours
Type: Sport climbing
Difficulty / Grade: VI+ by UIAA
Protection: 11 bolts, 2 anchors
Pitches: 2
Crux: To pass the steep wall with limited number of holds
The average slope angle: 75 – 110 degrees
The length of the route: 75 meters, using a 50-meter main rope
Climbing time: climbing takes about 1.5 hours
Difficulty / Grade: VI+ by UIAA
Protection: 11 bolts, 2 anchors
Pitches: 2
Crux: To pass the steep wall with limited number of holds
The average slope angle: 75 – 110 degrees
The length of the route: 75 meters, using a 50-meter main rope
Climbing time: climbing takes about 1.5 hours
Dates & Prices
To arrange logistics for this tour or equipment rental please contact us.
What’s included
- Transport Dushanbe – Climbing area - Dushanbe
- Rent of Climbing gear
- Lunch
What’s not included
- International airfares
- Visas
- Travel Insurance
- Meals and beverages not mentioned in the program
- Items of a personal nature such as laundry, phone calls, alcohol, etc
- Tips and gratuities